Archives September 2006

Nomex

NOMEX is the registered brand name of a flame retardant material marketed and first discovered by DuPont in the 1970s. It can be considered an aromatic “nylon”. It is sold in both fiber and sheet forms and is used as a fabric wherever resistance from heat and flame is required. Nomex type 410 paper is the original and one of the larger grade types made, mostly for electrical insulation purposes. The paper is used in electrical laminates such as circuit boards and transformer cores as well as fireproof honeycomb structures where it is saturated with a phenolic resin. Honeycomb structures such as these, as well as mylar-nomex laminates are used extensively in aircraft construction. Both the firefighting and vehicle racing industries use NOMEX to create clothing and equipment that can stand up to intense heat. Both aramids are heat and flame resistant but Kevlar, having a para- orientation can be molecularly aligned and gives high strength. Meta aramid polymer cannot align during filament formation and has poor strength.
Race car drivers commonly use a hood to protect them in the event of fire.Military pilots and aircrew wear one-piece flight suits made of over 92% NOMEX, to protect them from the possibility of fires and other mishaps. The remaining 8% is usually Kevlar thread used to hold the fabric together at the seams.

d3o

spiderd3o11Developed by d30-lab, d3o is a soft and flexible material that hardens on impact. According to the manufacturer, d3o is produced by combining a viscous fluid with a polymer (both proprietary in nature). The molecules are weakly bound and move very slowly under normal conditions, making the material very soft and flexible. However, the distress of a sudden impact causes the chemical bonds to strengthen and the moving molecules to lock together. The material becomes a hard, protective shield. This process happens in less than one thousandth of a second. The faster the impact, the more rapidly the molecules respond.

ASP Tactical Baton

ASP_BatonThe ASP Tactical Baton is a retractable self-defense baton manufactured by Armament Systems and Procedures, INC. It is a durable telescoping impact weapon used mainly by Law Enforcement and private Security personnel.
While the martial arts community has a number of cheap expandable batons available, such products differ dramatically from the ASP Tactical Baton. The FBI, The DEA, The U.S. Secret Service, and The US Army do NOT issue these exotic weapons to their personnel. They do issue the ASP Tactical Baton.
In most locales, you will need to be ASP Certified to carry and use this baton. ASP Basic Certification is provided for law enforcement officers. ASP Instructor Certification is designed to train instructors for police agencies. ASP Trainer Certification is available for individuals who will, in turn, train instructors in various Law Enforcement agencies. Both ASP Instructor Certification and ASP Trainer Certification are provided by Armament Systems and Procedures at no charge. Participation in an AIC or ATC program is scheduled through an authorized ASP Distributor or ASP Technical Support Manager.
 

Outline On Pepper Spray

What is Pepper Spray?


Pepper spray is a nonlethal aerosol spray made with the pepper derivative oleorsein capiscum (or OC). It is used to cause temporary blindness and incapacitate an attacker. You should only use pepper spray if you are threatened or your life is in danger. It is a crime to use pepper spray to commit malicious acts.
 
A steady burst of 3-5 seconds will turn almost any attacker, no matter how “tough”, into a blind crybaby, and allow you to either escape, or take control of the situation. Some brands of pepper spray will also leave an invisible chemical on the attacker which will help the Police identify them.
Before you buy a container of Pepper Spray, always look at the expiration date. You will need to buy a new can when it expires. Most brands last for about 2 years.


How does pepper spray work?
 
Pepper spray is an inflammatory agent. When the spray comes into contact with mucous membranes (eyes, nose, throat and lungs), it causes immediate dilation of the capillaries. Temporary blindness and instant inflammation of the nose, throat and lungs will occur immediately after the spray comes into contact with the mucous membranes. The attacker will experience difficulty breathing, coughing, choking, sneezing, severe burning sensations to the eyes, nose, throat and skin, and nausea.
The inflammation will last anywhere from 15 minutes to approximately one hour.


Is Pepper Spray Legal?
 
Pepper spray is legal in all 50 States in the U.S. However, possession and/or use may be regulated or prohibited by law in some jurisdictions including your city or town. If you are not 100% sure that pepper spray is legal to use and carry in your locale, check with your local Police department.


Where is Pepper Spray Prohibited?
 
You cannot carry pepper spray on board a commercial aircraft. If you do, you can be charged with a Federal Crime and a $25,000 dollar fine. You may not be allowed to carry pepper spray into Federal buildings and State buildings, if in doubt…leave it at home.


Various Pepper Spray State Restrictions:
NEW YORK – New York residents may only purchase defense sprays from licensed Firearms Dealers or licensed Pharmacists in that state.
MASSACHUSETTS – Massachusetts residents may only purchase defense sprays from licensed Firearms Dealers in that state.
MICHIGAN – Pepper Spray can be no stronger then a 2% concentration of OC (see top of this article).
WISCONSIN – Pepper Spray can be no stronger then a 10% concentration of OC. Can must be between 15-60 grams only. The bottle must also have a “safety” which locks into place.

Levels of Bulletproofing

Here are the different levels of bullet proofing and what they protect you against. Picking the Level of bulletproofing you need depends on the threat level you face.

Armor Level Protects Against
Type I (.22 LR; .380 ACP) This armor protects against .22 caliber Long Rifle Lead Round Nose (LR LRN) bullets, with nominal masses of 2.6 g (40 gr) at a reference velocity of 329 m/s (1080 ft/s ± 30 ft/s) and .380 ACP Full Metal Jacketed Round Nose (FMJ RN) bullets, with nominal masses of 6.2 g (95 gr) at a reference velocity of 322 m/s (1055 ft/s ± 30 ft/s).
Type IIA (9 mm; .40 S&W) This armor protects against 9 mm Full Metal Jacketed Round Nose (FMJ RN) bullets, with nominal masses of 8.0 g (124 gr) at a reference velocity of 341 m/s (1120 ft/s ± 30 ft/s) and .40 S&W caliber Full Metal Jacketed (FMJ) bullets, with nominal masses of 11.7 g (180 gr) at a reference velocity of 322 m/s (1055 ft/s ± 30 ft/s). It also provides protection against the threats mentioned in [Type I].
Type II (9 mm; .357 Magnum) This armor protects against 9 mm Full Metal Jacketed Round Nose (FMJ RN) bullets, with nominal masses of 8.0 g (124 gr) at a reference velocity of 367 m/s (1205 ft/s ± 30 ft/s) and 357 Magnum Jacketed Soft Point (JSP) bullets, with nominal masses of 10.2 g (158 gr) at a reference velocity of 436 m/s (1430 ft/s ± 30 ft/s). It also provides protection against the threats mentioned in [Types I and IIA].
Type IIIA (High Velocity 9 mm; .44 Magnum) This armor protects against 9 mm Full Metal Jacketed Round Nose (FMJ RN) bullets, with nominal masses of 8.0 g (124 gr) at a reference velocity of 436 m/s (1430 ft/s ± 30 ft/s) and .44 Magnum Semi Jacketed Hollow Point (SJHP) bullets, with nominal masses of 15.6 g (240 gr) at a reference velocity of 436 m/s (1430 ft/s ± 30 ft/s). It also provides protection against most handgun threats, as well as the threats mentioned in [Types I, IIA, and II].
Type III (Rifles) This armor protects against 7.62 mm Full Metal Jacketed (FMJ) bullets (U.S. Military designation M80), with nominal masses of 9.6 g (148 gr) at a reference velocity of 847 m/s (2780 ft/s ± 30 ft/s) or less. It also provides protection against the threats mentioned in [Types I, IIA, II, and IIIA].
Type IV (Armor Piercing Rifle) This armor protects against .30 caliber armor piercing (AP) bullets (U.S. Military designation M2 AP), with nominal masses of 10.8 g (166 gr) at a reference velocity of 878 m/s (2880 ft/s ± 30 ft/s). It also provides at least single hit protection against the threats mentioned in [Types I, IIA, II, IIIA, and III].

 

Acrobatics

By Noble
((UNDER CONTINUED CONSTRUCTION))
As a hero, being adept in acrobatics and gymnastics could mean the difference between life and death. Knowing how to hit the ground properly and quickly roll back up, how to spin away from a thrown projectile or even how dive for cover properly are only a few of many different uses being familiar with acrobatics would have for any hero. For some, such as myself, acrobatics can acctually be incorporated into your style of crime-fighting, similar to Tim Drake of DC, the Acrobat of Marvel, and certain aspects of the infamous Spider-man of Marvel. Of course, no one expects you to be able to go out and backflip your self out of harm’s way flawlessly every time, that’s unlikely and impractical. However, in this quick acrobatic tutorial, I’ll do my best to assure that you can learn as much as you feel able to.
*Noble’s note*
Personally, I’m a trained acrobat who has been performing for a few years now, so all of these techniques I have acctually done, over and over. However, you may not have been. Because of this, I thought it best to rate the techniques between one and five, based on their individual difficulty. I suggest you start off with the lower-level techniques if you feel unsure about the mid- and high-level ones.
*Noble’s note*
I also recommend you start training in these techniques in a light gym outfit, then work your way up to gradually wearing your hero outfit. You armored heroes might have a hard time with some of these.
*Noble’s note*
The entire description of the move and the steps are not necessary for you to learn the technique, but will help with your understanding. If you want just the ‘quick-and-dirty’ version of each move, where I say it plain and simple, read the breakdown of each technique.
THE BASICS:
‘proper’ summersault, dive-roll, cartwheel, shoulder-roll.
1. Proper Summersault: Rating: 1/5
Now, most of us have been doing summersaults since we were young, so we all should understand how a summersault works. You put your hands on the ground in front of you, crouch, jump up and roll. Sounds fine and dandy, in a grass patch maybe, but on a cement surface, trying one just like that will probably hurt. A ‘proper’ summersault is done much more gymnastically, so that it can be done on hard surfaces like ashphalt painlessly. Technically speaking, a summersault starts with both feet on the ground. A jump into a summersault is considered a dive-roll, and will be the next thing I explain.
To do a proper, hero-friendly and painless summersault, fallow these steps:
1. Look where you’re saulting. Quickly glance to where you intend to roll and make sure there isn’t anything that will hurt to roll on in the area you’ll be, well, rolling on. Obviously, things like broken glass, sharp rocks and branches will hurt, so try to avoid them, or consider dive-rolling over them.
2. Position yourself. Again, quickly. You may not have a lot of time to do this, although odds are you’re dive-rolling, which is much more useful, but you never know. The feet forward, hands down approach you learned as a kid will work, but you need to know this if you don’t want pain while rolling on a hard surface: tuck your chin. Honestly, try and look as closely at your belly button as possible. This keeps your head tucked in nicely, and curves your neck and spine properly, adding a smooth roll to your summersault while remouving pain, as well as giving you a bit of intertia to spring back up.
3. Hands on the ground. Keeping your feet facing the direction you’re going to roll, but not necessarily together, put your hands on the ground in front of you, placed in the same way as if you were doing a pushup, or at the starting line for a sprinting race. This requires that you bend your knees and get low to the ground, but in which ever way is most comfortable to you. The knees may be bent completely and the legs spread, very also Spider-man like, or may be tucked in tight to the body, in a Robin style. Personally, I find it easier if I keep myself on the toes of my feet instead of flat-footed.
4. Roll. Roll by either curling in from your shoulders, leaning your weight forward to tilt you off the balance you have, or lifting off with your legs in a small hop. It depends entirely on your body type. If you are long-legged, curling inwards into a ball and leaning forward will not get you anywhere, whereas if you are upper-body oriented, lifting off with your legs will just send you flat on your back, knocking the wind out of you.
Breakdown: Feet pointing towards the direction you’re rolling, hands on the ground like a push-up, knees bent, tip-toed, chin tucked, back arched, lean forward/kick off, roll, stand back up.
Uses: Personally, I’m not sure if a summersault would serve much good on it’s own, but it could be used as a quick dodge/evade, and knowing how to arch your back and roll properly, as taught by the summersault, is necessary if you want to learn more useful techniques, like the dive-roll and shoulder roll.
2. The dive-roll: Rating: 2.5/5.
The dive roll is probably the single most useful acrobatic skill to learn as a hero, as it can be useful in dozens of situations. A dive-roll can get you behind cover, away from harm, into the right position or over an obstacle/threat quickly and efficiently, when properly done. Through practice, you can eventually jump farther and higher before the actual roll itself, maximising it’s efficiency. The highest jump I’ve ever seen is litterally over another man’s head, where as mine is currently 5 feet up at most. I recommend you learn the proper technique to a summersault before you attempt this one, since you’re going to need to know how to roll on your back properly to avoid pain, especially considering you’re jumping and diving into this one.
1. Learn your Aim. The aiming of the dive-roll is crucial. You don’t want to dive in an attempt to roll at point A and acctually end up launching and landing flat on your back at point B, rolling haphazardly to point C, then coughing up a lung at point D before puking blood at point E. To learn your aim, keep both feet together and hop as far forward as you can, then crouch down into the summersault position. Now, stand up, and look back to where you jumped from. The distance from point A to where you currently are is your aim. The place where your hands where once you were crouched into summersault position is your exact landing point. Of course, make sure you aren’t aiming at a pile of broken glass, used needles, ravenous badgers and angsty sex-starved spike-covered goths. That would not be a happy landing. Trust me.
*Noble’s note*
Okay, so there weren’t any glass, needles or badgers, but I did accidently fly into a couple of angsty goths in the process of make-out-walking once when they rounded a street corner suddenly.
2. The Dive. To do a dive roll, what you want to do is basically dive forward with your hands out stretched in front of you, palms flat, as if you wanted to land into a handstand. The rolling aspect comes right away after this step, so unless you can just dive into a handstand, I don’t recommend you practice this step without fallowing through with the next one.
3. Rolling. As mentioned above, this step comes instantly after the dive. Step-by-step, this is what you do: Once you the ground, tuck your legs in and assume the summersault position. Then, and by then, I mean a split second after, let your self fall down and forward into the roll, fallowing through in the exact same way as if you were just doing a summersault, and before you know it, the momentum from the roll will have you back on your feet at point B, a good couple feet away from point A.
4. Absorbing the impact. Because you are doing a summersault at the point of impact, all of the force from your dive is transferred into the momentum of the roll, and if you fallow the guide of the summersault above to the letter, you will feel no pain at all when executing this move, wether it be on carpet, linoleum or a street. just remember to tuck your head in, by either putting your chin as close to your chest as possible, or trying to get your eyes as close to your stomach as possible. This arches your back properly, and gives you the right roll to avoid pain and injury.
5. Breakdown. Dive, extend arms, touch ground, curve spine, roll, stand.
6. Uses. The dive roll is a very useful technique, helping you avoid obstacles or injury by getting yourself up and away from the source of the problem, then launching you forward with momemtum after the roll, which you could use for either an intertia-enhanced punch, a simple evasion or even the means for a quick escape. With practice, you can get your dive-rolls farther and higher, giving you more options when using it.
3. The cartwheel. Rating: 1/5
Not so useful on its on, the cartwheel acctually is more of a necessary requirement before you move on to the roundoff, which you MUST have before other more intense techniques, such as backhandsprings, backflips, arabians, etc. That’s honestly the only reason the cartwheel is here at all. Without knowing the proper basic techniques, you can’t hope to move up to the intense skills. I kinda hope you all know how to cartwheel already, cause if you don’t, you had a very dull childhood.
1. Positioning, The cartwheel position isn’t hard. Stand still, and look forward. Of course, once you know what you’re doing, you don’t need to be standing still at all, you could be running, or falling, or whatever. But if you don’t know what you’re doing, you’re reading this tutorial.
2. Step one. To do a cartwheel, first, lift up which ever foot is your lead foot (If you’re right handed, it’s your right foot, and vice versa). As you do this, lift your lead arm straight up into the air, and hold your other arm straight out behind you. This should turn your upper body slightly, lining your shoulders up with your foot
3. The swing. To begin the cartwheel, step down with your lead foot. The harder and faster you step down has an effect on how fast you will cartwheel, as well as how far you will go. As you step down, however, you need to swing your arms with the movement. The lead arm, which should still be upright, is swung down, while the back arm is swung up. The back leg is also swung up as the same time as the back arm, which helps you generate your momentum.
4. The transfer. This is the defining moment of a cartwheel, it determines wether you cartwheel or bail onto your face. Swing the now up-raised front arm down, and put the hand on the ground, fingers point in the same direction as which ever hand you plant first (i.e, fingers facing left for left handers, right for right handers). Now, push up and kick off with your back foot, transfering your weight from your foot to your hand. Your wight is oging to shift forward, so plant your other hand wherever your weight takes you (this varies on body type, as well as hieght). Your body should still continue to wheel forward, so remove your back hand from the ground at this point, and your feet should land on the ground in a line with your hands at this point.
5. Uses. None, in practical thinking, none. Honestly. “Don’t shoot me, I’m going to cart wheel away! Ahhh!” Yeah, don’t think so. The only reason I have it here is cause you need to know it to do a round-off.
4. The shoulder roll: Rating: 2/5
As useful as the dive-roll in just as many situations, the shoulder roll can acctually help you roll over a car that is attempting to run you down.
*Noble’s note*
…Practice the move on a floor or ground patch somewhere before you start jumping at cars…
INTERMEDIATE:

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Move with the shadows

Flow with the shadows: How to move silently.
By: Supreme
Well to start off with… most importantly, make sure your bones are cracked. Get all the kinks out now. You don’t want to be in the shadows with your own body making noises.
Do not wear pants that’ll swish together or make a creasing sound. Ordinary jeans tend to be silent and move without hassle. Take it from me… do not, I repeat, do not wear leather pants or motorcycle pants. They are so damn noisy. Granted the moto pants give great protection.
Use malleable soft style knee pads. Don’t wear hard shell knee pads. They clank when you kneel and they give off a shine. Also you might want to wear them under your jeans to deflect any shine it may have.
An all black Under Armour ‘rash guard’ style shirt is very silent and moves well with the muscles. Don’t wear a shirt that has buttons or any metallic style threads.
Don’t wear a leather or pleather jacket for they also tend to make a creasing sound.
Your boots should be comfortable in a crouching position. This is important. You don’t want them to make a sound when you kneel forward from the crouching position.
An all black uniform is desired. Remember, you’re going for stealth and you need to move with the shadows not against the shadows.
Also, you may want to use a hydration pack when you are only doing recon work. It’s just a suggestion. You may be in one spot for some time. Be prepared to wait. Have extreme patience. If you’re going to live in the shadows and remain stealthy, I suggest you try it out several times before officially using it in patrol.
Good luck!
– Supreme
Below are the steps to moving silently. The art of stealth doesn’t have to be followed exact because you will need to fight and you shouldn’t wear soft shoes when fighting.
1: Get soft footwear. The harder your footwear, the louder the noise. The best type of footwear is socks or leather moccasins. When at all possible, avoid bare feet (feet generally sweat and on flat surfaces, this creates lots of noise, as they stick to the floor) and hard-soled boots (because of their bulk and material, boots are more difficult to walk quietly in).
2: Wear sparse, tight clothing. When walking, one’s legs and clothes rub together creating noise. Minimizing your gear will prevent this
3: Unless congested, take slow and measured breaths from the nose. If congested open your mouth wide and take deep controlled breaths
4: Watch the next place you will take a step. Be mindful of objects you are stepping on.

    • Outside, try to walk on bare dirt or live grass. Dead foliage creates a perceptible “crunch” even when lightly stepped on. If you encounter an area where forced to walk through foliage, then pick the clearest path and proceed slowly, possibly bending over and removing obstructions from the location of the next step.
    • Inside, stick to carpet or other flooring with padding underneath.

5: Match the cadence of the person you are following (i.e. when the person steps with his or her left foot, you use your left foot). This will help mask any noise your feet may make. Remember that sound travels at 340 meters per second (1116 ft/sec), so you might need to adjust your walk accordingly: Note the delay between the visual step and the sound of the step from the one you are following, and try to use the same delay for your steps, only the other way around – you must step slightly before the person you are following.
6: Place the heel or toes of your foot down first and roll your foot slowly and gently onto the ground. If moving swiftly, run/leap from location to location. Avoid landing flatfooted. For moving backwards, this is reversed, so that the ball of the foot is placed down first, and then the heel lowered to the ground.
7: Be sure your footwear fits properly; if your foot slides at all in your footwear it can produce a squeaking noise, especially if your feet are sweaty.
8: Walk on the outer edge of your feet, rolling your foot from heel to pinky toe, if you want to get very close to the target. Though very silent, this technique is also uncomfortable and should only be used for short distances. The hips can be rotated slightly to make this technique easier.
9: Stand 90 degrees to the direction you want to go with your feet spread slightly, then take the foot on the other side of where you want to go, and while balancing on your other foot, move it across, making an X with your legs. Take your other foot and swing it out from behind to the start position. This method allows you to walk with some speed silently, even when wearing jeans which usually make lots of noise.
10: Bend low at the knees. The first part of your foot to hit the ground should be the heel. “Roll” forward on that foot until you’re on the ball of your foot (the padded part just behind the toes). Just before you’ve rolled all the way onto the ball of your foot, put your other foot down, heel first, directly in front of the first foot, almost touching it. You should be able to smoothly roll from the first foot to the second. Continue by rolling on the second foot, until you’re almost at the ball, and repeat by putting the first foot in front of the second. This should all be done fluidly.
TIPS:

  • Running on the balls of one’s feet (‘digitigrade’) helps with speed and quietness, but be careful; this requires more strength in the feet and lower legs, and greater flexibility in the ankle and foot joints. It also requires better balance than normal movement, and creates a greater impression on softer surfaces (due to the weight being spread over a decreased surface area).
  • When climbing items such as trees and cliffs, be mindful of where your foot lands. Try to place the toes and front padding of the foot in between branches and on crevices of the cliff. If you are forced to step in the middle of a branch or push up the side of the cliff, do it slowly and proceed with caution. A little force may dislodge a shower of debris or break a twig alerting watchers.
  • When walking through a house with wood floors, stick close to the wall to minimize creaking floorboards. The same is true for staircases.
  • Avoid shifting your weight until your forward foot is quietly and firmly on the ground. This will require a considerable degree of balance and practice.
  • When opening doors, apply pressure upwards on the handle to avoid squeaks. Also turn handle so the bolt is completely withdrawn before applying any pressure to the door. Keep the handle pushed down while passing through the door, close the door, push it against the frame so the bolt will fit without snapping, then quietly release the handle.
  • If unable to wear tight clothes, try to step without your pants rubbing together or rubbing against your skin as this can create noticeable noise in quiet situations. Wool clothing is quietest.
  • Make sure your footwear is completely dry, not only can it squeak, damp spots on the floor can alert someone to your presence.
  • If you have problems with dragging your feet, then try walking around slowly with your shoelaces untied and dangling to create noise if you don’t raise and lower your feet. Warning: Do not attempt to do this quickly or carelessly, as you could trip and fall. Keep it slow, steady and measured.
  • You don’t just walk with your foot; your whole body is involved, from arms and head for balance, to hips and torso for driving the leg movements, to the legs themselves for creating the distance. ‘Play around’ with your movements so that you build a picture of what works for you and what doesn’t.
  • Try Zig-Zagging as you walk: step with one foot then step forward and to the side. Step the other direction. Repeat. This way you keep more of your balance.
  • Start on the outside of your heel and roll your foot diagonally, but don’t overdo it and roll it just from the outside in.
  • Before you start your walking, roll both of your feet around at the ankles a few times. This will make sure to get any ‘pops’ from your ankles out of the way. These ‘pops’ are the result of synovial fluid moving under the joints, similar to the action and sound that your knuckles make when you crack them. If you don’t make sure to crack your ankles first, you may end up making some noise later on when you need silence.
  • If you must make noise, perhaps because of loose clothing, try to make it as “natural” as possible. Short, sharp, or repetitious noises that characterize human movement can be broken into unrecognizable segments by varying your cadence or by dragging out the noise, making it more fluid and less human. This may be more applicable in urban environments where frequent background noise can mask your movements, allowing you to, in-effect, hide in the “shadows” of ambient noise.
  • If your clothes make noise that cannot be helped, wait a moment before you walk, and try to take advantage of another distracting noise. Choose to move when another sound is more present, to mask your own noise.
  • Though not noise-related, if you are walking up directly behind someone be mindful of the shadow you cast. If there is a light-source behind you, your shadow will lead you, and be perceived instinctively. Using the crouched walking position will greatly minimize this.

Be safe out there!
– Supreme
Flow with the shadows: How to move silently.
By: Supreme
Well to start off with… most importantly, make sure your bones are cracked. Get all the kinks out now. You don’t want to be in the shadows with your own body making noises.
Do not wear pants that’ll swish together or make a creasing sound. Ordinary jeans tend to be silent and move without hassle. Take it from me… do not, I repeat, do not wear leather pants or motorcycle pants. They are so damn noisy. Granted the moto pants give great protection.
Use malleable soft style knee pads. Don’t wear hard shell knee pads. They clank when you kneel and they give off a shine. Also you might want to wear them under your jeans to deflect any shine it may have.
An all black Under Armour ‘rash guard’ style shirt is very silent and moves well with the muscles. Don’t wear a shirt that has buttons or any metallic style threads.
Don’t wear a leather or pleather jacket for they also tend to make a creasing sound.
Your boots should be comfortable in a crouching position. This is important. You don’t want them to make a sound when you kneel forward from the crouching position.
An all black uniform is desired. Remember, you’re going for stealth and you need to move with the shadows not against the shadows.
Also, you may want to use a hydration pack when you are only doing recon work. It’s just a suggestion. You may be in one spot for some time. Be prepared to wait. Have extreme patience. If you’re going to live in the shadows and remain stealthy, I suggest you try it out several times before officially using it in patrol.
Good luck!
– Supreme
Below are the steps to moving silently. The art of stealth doesn’t have to be followed exact because you will need to fight and you shouldn’t wear soft shoes when fighting.
1: Get soft footwear. The harder your footwear, the louder the noise. The best type of footwear is socks or leather moccasins. When at all possible, avoid bare feet (feet generally sweat and on flat surfaces, this creates lots of noise, as they stick to the floor) and hard-soled boots (because of their bulk and material, boots are more difficult to walk quietly in).
2: Wear sparse, tight clothing. When walking, one’s legs and clothes rub together creating noise. Minimizing your gear will prevent this
3: Unless congested, take slow and measured breaths from the nose. If congested open your mouth wide and take deep controlled breaths
4: Watch the next place you will take a step. Be mindful of objects you are stepping on.

    • Outside, try to walk on bare dirt or live grass. Dead foliage creates a perceptible “crunch” even when lightly stepped on. If you encounter an area where forced to walk through foliage, then pick the clearest path and proceed slowly, possibly bending over and removing obstructions from the location of the next step.
    • Inside, stick to carpet or other flooring with padding underneath.

5: Match the cadence of the person you are following (i.e. when the person steps with his or her left foot, you use your left foot). This will help mask any noise your feet may make. Remember that sound travels at 340 meters per second (1116 ft/sec), so you might need to adjust your walk accordingly: Note the delay between the visual step and the sound of the step from the one you are following, and try to use the same delay for your steps, only the other way around – you must step slightly before the person you are following.
6: Place the heel or toes of your foot down first and roll your foot slowly and gently onto the ground. If moving swiftly, run/leap from location to location. Avoid landing flatfooted. For moving backwards, this is reversed, so that the ball of the foot is placed down first, and then the heel lowered to the ground.
7: Be sure your footwear fits properly; if your foot slides at all in your footwear it can produce a squeaking noise, especially if your feet are sweaty.
8: Walk on the outer edge of your feet, rolling your foot from heel to pinky toe, if you want to get very close to the target. Though very silent, this technique is also uncomfortable and should only be used for short distances. The hips can be rotated slightly to make this technique easier.
9: Stand 90 degrees to the direction you want to go with your feet spread slightly, then take the foot on the other side of where you want to go, and while balancing on your other foot, move it across, making an X with your legs. Take your other foot and swing it out from behind to the start position. This method allows you to walk with some speed silently, even when wearing jeans which usually make lots of noise.
10: Bend low at the knees. The first part of your foot to hit the ground should be the heel. “Roll” forward on that foot until you’re on the ball of your foot (the padded part just behind the toes). Just before you’ve rolled all the way onto the ball of your foot, put your other foot down, heel first, directly in front of the first foot, almost touching it. You should be able to smoothly roll from the first foot to the second. Continue by rolling on the second foot, until you’re almost at the ball, and repeat by putting the first foot in front of the second. This should all be done fluidly.
TIPS:

  • Running on the balls of one’s feet (‘digitigrade’) helps with speed and quietness, but be careful; this requires more strength in the feet and lower legs, and greater flexibility in the ankle and foot joints. It also requires better balance than normal movement, and creates a greater impression on softer surfaces (due to the weight being spread over a decreased surface area).
  • When climbing items such as trees and cliffs, be mindful of where your foot lands. Try to place the toes and front padding of the foot in between branches and on crevices of the cliff. If you are forced to step in the middle of a branch or push up the side of the cliff, do it slowly and proceed with caution. A little force may dislodge a shower of debris or break a twig alerting watchers.
  • When walking through a house with wood floors, stick close to the wall to minimize creaking floorboards. The same is true for staircases.
  • Avoid shifting your weight until your forward foot is quietly and firmly on the ground. This will require a considerable degree of balance and practice.
  • When opening doors, apply pressure upwards on the handle to avoid squeaks. Also turn handle so the bolt is completely withdrawn before applying any pressure to the door. Keep the handle pushed down while passing through the door, close the door, push it against the frame so the bolt will fit without snapping, then quietly release the handle.
  • If unable to wear tight clothes, try to step without your pants rubbing together or rubbing against your skin as this can create noticeable noise in quiet situations. Wool clothing is quietest.
  • Make sure your footwear is completely dry, not only can it squeak, damp spots on the floor can alert someone to your presence.
  • If you have problems with dragging your feet, then try walking around slowly with your shoelaces untied and dangling to create noise if you don’t raise and lower your feet. Warning: Do not attempt to do this quickly or carelessly, as you could trip and fall. Keep it slow, steady and measured.
  • You don’t just walk with your foot; your whole body is involved, from arms and head for balance, to hips and torso for driving the leg movements, to the legs themselves for creating the distance. ‘Play around’ with your movements so that you build a picture of what works for you and what doesn’t.
  • Try Zig-Zagging as you walk: step with one foot then step forward and to the side. Step the other direction. Repeat. This way you keep more of your balance.
  • Start on the outside of your heel and roll your foot diagonally, but don’t overdo it and roll it just from the outside in.
  • Before you start your walking, roll both of your feet around at the ankles a few times. This will make sure to get any ‘pops’ from your ankles out of the way. These ‘pops’ are the result of synovial fluid moving under the joints, similar to the action and sound that your knuckles make when you crack them. If you don’t make sure to crack your ankles first, you may end up making some noise later on when you need silence.
  • If you must make noise, perhaps because of loose clothing, try to make it as “natural” as possible. Short, sharp, or repetitious noises that characterize human movement can be broken into unrecognizable segments by varying your cadence or by dragging out the noise, making it more fluid and less human. This may be more applicable in urban environments where frequent background noise can mask your movements, allowing you to, in-effect, hide in the “shadows” of ambient noise.
  • If your clothes make noise that cannot be helped, wait a moment before you walk, and try to take advantage of another distracting noise. Choose to move when another sound is more present, to mask your own noise.
  • Though not noise-related, if you are walking up directly behind someone be mindful of the shadow you cast. If there is a light-source behind you, your shadow will lead you, and be perceived instinctively. Using the crouched walking position will greatly minimize this.

Be safe out there!
– Supreme

 

Keeping cool under Kevlar

*From Beerio’s Manual
Keeping cool under many layers of Kevlar
There a few different methods for cooling in suits.
*One way is to put different types of cooling packs in the refridgerator and then stuff these packs in pockets in the inside of the suit.
*Another is to have tubes with water (salt water might be better to keep the water pure and keep it from turning green and slimy) running around the body on the inside of the suit.
*Last, and least effective, is to have holes and vents for ventilation.
 

Indentifying American Street Gang Alliances

Street Gangs in the United States fall into categories based most importantly on thier “prison alliance”. This is so that weaker gangs increase the influence and power of the gangs closer to the top of the ladder, while in return their members receive a measure of protection while incarcerated.


The main categories being:

  • Folks
  • Crips
  • Bloods
  • Peoples
  • White Power/Aryan
  • 1Percenter (outlaw bikers)

Traditional Gangs
– have existed over a long period of time to have established a system of traditional motivations that are adhered to.
It has an exact organizational chart, identifiable colors and specific hand signals.
They have aligned themselves with either the ‘Folk’ or the ‘Peoples Nations’. Examples are Crips, Bloods and Black Gangster Disciples.
Non-Traditional Gangs
– This type of gang is slowly evolving into a traditional gang, but it has not been around long enough to have adopted long standing traditions. They have no structure or organization. They tend to form and dissolve frequently.
• These gangs are still struggling with their identities.
• It is unique to a local area and has not aligned with either the Folk or People’s Nation.
Criminal Enterprise
– This type of gang is bonded together by a common criminal interest. It is made up of adults and they are mainly involved in the wholesale of narcotics, i.e. Mafia, Jamaican Posse, Outlaw Motorcycle Gangs (1%ers are known to be involved in drugs, murders, thefts, prostitution, etc.).
Tag Artist
– This group is bonded together by the common interest in Graffiti Art. They are, for the most part, a non-violent group and consist mainly of Anglo and/or Hispanic males.


In some cases, smaller gangs call themselves war crews and claim either “Renegade” or “Outlaw“. Upon entering the prison system, they usually meld into one of the above groups for protection.The most popular gang alliances of today being the “top four”, we will look at thier relationships “in a nutshell”. Let’s try and simplify things some.


1. Originating from the West Coast, Bloods and Crips are notorious worldwide. The public often thinks they are merely two gangs. They are split up into many smaller gangs, that claim Bloods or Crips. (“Claiming” an alliance means “representing” it.)
2. While the Bloods and Crips (unlike Peoples‘ and Folks) started as single neighborhood gangs, then grew into large alliances, the Folks and Peoples did not. They are both alliances formed behind bars, by the leaders of the most powerful gangs in the midwest, in 1978.
3. White Power gangs are often seen as less of a threat, being that they are low-profile right now. This is not always the case. Gangs such as the NLR (Nazi Low-Riders) from California, The Hammerhead Skins, and Christian Identity, have grown to occupy prisons and towns nationwide and in some cases, beyond U.S. borders. The most dangerous of these at the moment would be the Nazi Low Riders.


WHY DO KIDS JOIN GANGS?
Gang members are usually males who join the gang by either committing a crime(s) or undergoing an initiation procedure wherein they are beaten severely by fellow gang members to test their courage and fighting ability. Their motivation for joining gangs is varied, but usually falls within one if the following categories:
1. Identity or recognition…being part of a gang allows the youth gang member to achieve a level of status he feels is impossible outside the gang culture.
2. Protection…many members join because they live in the gang area and are therefore, subject to violence by rival gangs. Joining guarantees support in case of attack and retaliation for transgressions.
3. Fellowship and brotherhood…to the majority of the youth gang members, the gang functions as an extension of the family and may provide companionship lacking in the gang members home environment.
4. Intimidation…some members are forced into joining by their peer group. Intimidation techniques range from extorting lunch money to physical beatings. If a particular violent gang is recruitment in progress, the recruitment tactics used by the gang can be extremely violent, even to the point of murdering a non-member to coerce others into joining the gang.
Levels of Involvement
LEVEL I FANTASY

1. Knows about gangs primarily from newspaper, newscasts and the movies.
2. May or may not know about “real” gangs.
3. May or may not know one or more gang members, but does not associate.
4. May or may not like, respect or admire a gang, a gang member or the gang lifestyle.
5. See gang members “living out a fantasy”.
LEVEL II AT RISK
1. Knows about gangs and gang members first hand.
2. Occasionally casually associates with gang members.
3. Lives in or near gang areas (turf).
4. May like or admire gangs or gang members as individuals.
5. May like and/or admire the gang lifestyle, but not participate fully.
LEVEL III WANNA-BE, ASSOCIATE
1. Knows and likes gang members first hand.
2. Regularly associates with gang members.
3. Considers gangs & related activity as normal, acceptable or admirable.
4. Finds many things in common with gang members.
5. Is seriously thinking about joining a gang.
LEVEL IV GANG MEMBERS
1. Is officially a gang member.
2. Associates almost exclusively with gang members to the exclusion of family and former friends.
3. Participates in gang crimes and most other related activities.
4. Is not considered hard core by fellow gang members or others.
5. Has substantially rejected the authority or value system of family and society.
LEVEL V HARD-CORE GANG MEMBER
1. Totally committed to the gang and gang lifestyle.
2. Totally rejects anyone or any value system other than the gang.
3. Is considered hardcore by self, other gang members and authorities.
4. Will commit any act with the approval of a demand from the gang.
5. Does not accept any authority other than the gang.
Identifiers
1. Graffiti – one of the first indicators of gang activity is the appearance of graffiti in area. To most members of society graffiti is just vandalism and childish pranks and means nothing more than that. However, to gang members and trained observers, it is a clear marking of territorial boundaries and serves as a warning or even a challenge to a rival gang. You can find graffiti on almost any available space, be it a building, bus bench, park wall, street sign, or even a private residence. The purpose of graffiti is to glorify the gang and make its existence well known.
2. Hand Signals – the use of hand signals is multipurpose. It is a means of communicating gang affiliations to both rival and allied gang members. Hand signals are also used as means of challenging rival gangs i.e. “throwing signs”.
3. Tattoosthe tattoos can be used to identify the member’s gang, set and moniker. The tattoo may appear on any place of the member’s body such as the neck, arms, wrists, hands, chest and legs.
4. Colors – matching clothing such as shoes, shirts, caps and bandannas are common group identifiers. Colors are of paramount importance to the gang. They serve not only to identify gang members but also promote group solidarity. Degrading of one gang’s colors and/or symbol is the ultimate humiliation.
Profile:
1. Usually male.
2. School dropout or truant; poor student that does not like school and who does not adapt well at school.
3. Does not receive adequate family attention. The gang provides identity and status. In some cases, a single parent or family member may approve or condone participation especially if the gang member helps to support the family through narcotic sales or profits derived from criminal activity.
4. Victim of abuse/neglect and/or parental brutality.
5. Middle to lower economic background.
6. Negative role models.
7. Very street wise.
8. Activities confined to close proximity to his residence or gang’s turf.
9. Anti-social, aggressive and hostile.
10.Gang members commit crimes against people who are unable to defend themselves. They work where they have the advantage i.e. in the dark, from speeding cars and in packs.


 

Ousting You Local Drug Spot

When ousting a local drug operation, remember that the kid on the corner is the most expendable. Breakin down and or disorganizing a “set” is the way to do damage. This forces then to try and move to an easier spot to sell thier product, but in the process, usually many will be caught by the Police. You will probably quickly find that the Police become a great “tool” for you, and vice-versa. What you don’t have the manpower and or authority to do, they will.


But the the Police need certain info to get the job done. If you don’t give the local precinct enough so they are workin w/ somethin the FIRST time, don’t expect them to listen to you next time. This is where recon comes in.


The most important of these being: (in drug trafficking situations)
1. Street address
2. Busiest time of day for the spot
3. Crew or gang name if you can provide it, if not, at least crew colors.
4. If possible (at your own risk) find out who runs the spot (street name is usually good enough)
5. Through survelliance, try and find out WHEN they bring the drugs to the spot.


Notes:
1. When you report drug activity, you may not SEE any police response. The area or individuals you are reporting on may already be the subject of an on-going undercover investigation. Also, since drug transactions seldom involve danger to participants or bystanders, crimes that endanger someone must have first priority for available officers.
2. Your reports are very important. They let the police know there’s a problem, and you provide a reason for police to start an investigation of a person or location or provide vital information for an on-going investigation. Laws do no allow police to stop or investigate people without a good reason to believe they may be involved in illegal activity. Your information may be vital to meeting this demand of the law.


What the Police want to know:
• What makes you believe drugs are being sold?
• Do you know what drugs are involved? Have you seen any drug paraphernalia?
• How long has the activity gone on?
• Have you reported this activity before? If so, when?
• What is the address where the drug activity is occurring (including the apartment number) or the closest intersection.
• What type of building is it? (single family, home, business, apartment)